There are few people that straddle the worlds of fashion and fine art as well as London based designer and illustrator Giles Deacon. He has clothing pieces in the permanent collections of the V&A Museum in London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and artworks that have been exhibited and published worldwide.
Having forgone the world of fast fashion he now serves up his covetable creations to couture clients, and so I caught up with this creative colossus to find out what informs his unique style… from Mid California to manga ink and his passion for portraits!
The Regatta On The Grand Canal - Canaletto (The Bowes Museum)
Where is home and what does home mean to you? London has been my permanent home for the last 32 years and I have moved around, from Pimlico, The City of London, Islington, the East End and currently back to Islington. Home is a place where it’s possible to exist away from the outside world.
When, where, and how did your passion for art begin? I was raised in the Lake District and this area of astounding natural beauty combined with my active imagination, meant that from a very early age I was immersed in creative endeavors of all forms. My school was adjacent to the Bowes Museum and I had wonderful teachers in history and English Literature who both took lessons there. To have history lessons surrounded by Canaletto’s view of the Grand Canal and Anthony Van Dyck portraits was pretty wonderful and formative.
Giles Deacon.
What is your favourite medium to work in and why? From a design perspective I draw in pencil and use a lot of inks, walnut ink and Japanese manga ink that dries incredible quickly, which is great for getting expressive and detailed ideas down. From a making perspective I love working with bespoke designed fabrics that have structure, colour and pattern/print.
What took you to London and what has kept you there? A desire to explore my creative practice (whatever that was going to be) took me to London, and I was inspired by magazines such as I-D and TheFace, and I had a fascination with the worlds shown within them and being able to explore those while at art college working was intoxicating.
Which people and what places have sparked your creativity recently? I am always inspired by the people that I work with, their technical creative brilliance helps bring ideas to life. We are always looking to new ways to develop ideas, from pattern making, construction to hand gold foil printing.
I always seem to be drawn to the natural world with the North of Scotland, The Lake District and Mid California. Big Sur has recently sparked many creative ideas and possibilities.
Giles Deacon Fall 2016 Couture.
Why do portraits appeal to you? I have always been fascinated by portraits, I love knowing the backstory to the gaze, the historical context and the reasons for their creation. I’m intrigued by the possibility of being able to view and imagine another world and another life lived, if only for a moment. Of course there is also the eye of the artist, their technique and their quest for truth and beauty.
Landlocked in the pandemic, what were your escapes and diversions/how do you relax? Luckily over the pandemic I was able to work from my studio on existing projects (a ballet in America and also private clients ) I continued to lecture at the Royal College of Art via zoom. It was also a real luxury to start some new drawing projects (that were not specifically for anything) and to be able to relax and to do some gardening.
Tracey Emin - You Kept Watching Me (2018)
Who are some of your favourite contemporary artists? There are so many contemporary artists who’s work I admire, and for many individual reasons are Peter Doig, Rachel Feinstein, Michael Armitage, Tracey Emin, Sarah Lucas, Jeremy Deller and Hank Willis Thomas.
What is it about couture that appeals to you and how has new technology influenced this process? To make couture pieces really is the cherry on the cake, from the initial conversation with a client about a piece, to all the unique and bespoke aspects of development that follow - from fabrication to final is a real joy. I always work responsibly from a sustainable perspective with specialist makers from all disciplines, and wherever possible they are UK based. These are elements of the process that my clients are incredibly conscious of.
Technology has played an important part in the manner of communication enabling the way in which pieces can ordered and seen from different parts of the world. Appointments can be made from anywhere and fittings can take place virtually if required, this reduces the need to travel and speeds up the whole process enormously.
Vesuvius gown with nut- and jet-embroidered bodice with tulle CREDIT: Baud Postma. Artistic direction by Giles Deacon
What does luxury mean to you today? Luxury means responsibly made unique pieces for you and your world, whatever that may be from couture, a watch or bed linen.
What is the biggest challenge that you face professionally? Time is an enormous challenge professionally as there is never enough to do all one would like, I’d like more time please!
Dulwich Picture Gallery.
Which galleries inspire you ? In London I regularly visit the The National Gallery, The Victoria and Albert Museum and The Dulwich Picture Gallery, they always have surprises and I also find that going back to look at some favourite works over the years helps to shed new light and perspectives. I also try to go to see what’s on at Sadie Coles, White Cube and a few other independent galleries, where possible.
How does a feted fashion figure stay grounded? I always think the most important thing is to concentrate on the work and not get to involved in the whizz and the buzz of the business, also a slight northern pragmatism helps enormously!
Where are you happiest? Lost in imagination.
Nick Cox / Period Portraits June 2022.
For more information head to giles-deacon.com