We live in a world that is saturated with fast fashion, so perhaps it’s no surprise that the authenticity of historical costume is becoming more and more attractive. For many people modern fashion and trends just don’t appeal, and they have found their own bold and flamboyant way of slowing the clock and saving our planet.
One of the very best is costumier Adrien Chombart de Lauwe aka ‘Le Lion Tailleur’ who honed his knowledge at the Sorbonne, l’Ecole du Louvre, and The School of Historical Dress in London as well as at l’Académie de l’Opéra National de Paris. No surprise then that my friend frequently looks like he has just stepped out of a period portrait!
I caught up with Adrien recently to talk about portraits, dry cleaning and the art of happiness.
Adrien wears a starched shirt to a design from the 1840’s, a printed cotton handkerchief and a straw hat.
Can you describe your profession in just five words? The (1) most (2) beautiful (3) work (4) ever (5).
How was your passion for historical costume ignited? Well I can remember that when I was around 2/3 years old, I already wanted to go to school with a moustache and wearing gentleman's clothing. Fast forward (quite a few years) and now my whole life revolves around it.
Is it possible to name just one favourite costume in your collection? Most likely a fantastic Paletot from 1845-1850, it’s a piece that I acquired comparatively recently. It’s rare, very well fabricated, and it has some quite unusual details. I keep returning to it again and again to check each incredible inch.
Caletot from 1845-1850.
Caletot from 1845-1850.
Do you have a favourite historical television drama? Certainly "La Peau de Chagrin", a French adaptation of a work by Balzac. It has high production values and I find it very inspiring.
What is your favourite historical period and which characters from that era inspire you? Definitely the Romantic era. From the 1810's to1850's. Yes, some authors, scientists and artists like Ada Lovelace, Alexandre Dumas, George Sand, Honore de Balzac, the Count d'Orsay, Clara Schumann, Cellarius, and the Taglionis...
Do you have a style icon? Not really, I'm not particularly into the "fashion world” as such. I’m just obsessed with historical clothing.
Which recent exhibition has impressed you the most? Well it has to be the last one that I visited. "Sur la route de Samarcande" is one of the most beautiful and incredible that I’ve ever seen. It's shown 18th to 20th century textiles, garments and accessories from Uzbekistan.
Portrait of Louis Auguste Schwitter,f by Eugène Delacroix, 1826, the National Gallery, London.
Has a portrait ever inspired you to create a costume? Yes far too many! If I had to choose just one, it would be the Portrait of Louis Auguste Schwitter,f by Eugène Delacroix, 1826, the National Gallery, London.
Do you have a favourite artist or period in art? Yes, I really love the work of Louis-Leopold Boilly (1761-1845) he had his own very specific personal touch. It’s no surprise that the way he paints common scenes of life and people are celebrated worldwide.
What is the most unexpected item of clothing (or accessory) in your wardrobe A vintage polyester sweater.
What was the last item of casual clothing that you ever wore? Some ripple sole running shoes.
Do you send a fortune on dry cleaning? I clean all my own clothing personally.
John Keats by Joseph Severn 1821-1823.
What is your favourite tipple? Absinthe.
Byron, Keats or Shelley? KEATS!
What is the biggest challenge that you face professionally? Becoming an independent tailor.
Striding out en plein air.
Have you ever considered working in film? I have already dipped my toes in the water a couple of times. It was a fascinating experience, tough and exciting in equal parts.
What do you do to relax? Enjoying a gourmet coffee and listening to some baroque music.
What’s next for Le Lion Tailleur? I’d like to continue my focus on historical tailoring, creating delicate garments and costumes as well as creating publications and sharing news about my collection.
Where are you happiest? In the middle of nature, listening to birdsong and the wind singing.
Nick Cox / Period Portraits March 2023.
You can find out more about Adrien Chambart de Lauwe @leliontailleur on instagram.
Main image photography Eva Lorenzini and Clement T.