When your favourite art dealer has had a busy week, I love nothing better than to checking into an historic haven. Most involve exhaling in elevated surroundings, but few can compare with a trip to the sophisticated sanctuary that is Middlethorpe Hall near York in North Yorkshire.
Middlethorpe Hall facing the gardens.
Built in 1699, of mellow brick Middlethorpe is a William III country house that was once the home of the famous diarist, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. I wonder what her Lady Mary would have thought of Middlethorpe Hall in the 1970’s when it was hedonistic Brummels night club? In place of Colefax and Fowler furnishings she would have found a dance floor, woven peacock chairs, and multi-hued leather Chesterfields… her Ladyship may well have enjoyed it!
Blinds up in The Drawing Room at Middlethorpe Hall.
Happily Middlethorpe is now decorated in the 18th century manner and furnished with antiques, and yes, fine portraits. Even better I’m thrilled to say that its restoration, conservation, and conversion into a country house hotel was carried out to both exacting and historically accurate standards that have stood the test of time. This is enduring elegance of the best kind.
Far more than visiting a 29 bedroom hotel (or nightclub) arriving at Middlethorpe now feels like returning to a well kept, well furnished private home. When I visited in November and stepped into its checkered hallway, the warm feeling of welcome was all enveloping, thanks to a roaring fire and a relaxed but courteous team.
Relaxing with the house cat Suzie.
When it comes to dining in style the wood panelled Oak Room has views over the gardens, making it a relaxed spot for breakfast, and when at dinner it is lit by candlelight, the effect is magical, and so is the food. Head Chef Ashley Binder and Pastry Chef Paul Harrison work closely with local suppliers and their fresh seasonal ingredients to create tantalising menus that have white rightly gained many accolades. I am ashamed to say that I returned to the pastry section several times at breakfast, the croissants and pain au chocolat were far better than many that I have eaten on French soil! Pure buttery bliss!
Thanks to the wonderful weather I was able to walk off the additional calories in the gardens. They are a delight having been extensively restored and replanted since the property was acquired in 1980, they are established and thriving. The walled kitchen garden houses flowering shrubs and magnificent herbaceous borders which are used to decorate the house. and it has also has been planted with the fruit which were used by the chef in the creation of some of my delicious desserts at dinner.
The Oak Room at Middlethorpe Hall.
Thank you team Middlethorpe for an elegant and elevated stay brought to life by the warmest of Yorkshire welcomes!
Middlethorpe Hall and Spa. Bishopthorpe Rd, York YO23 2GB/ Telephone 01904 641141 Middlethorpe Hall
by Nick Cox December 2024.